Quagi Beach to Millers Point

Day 41 - Quagi Beach to Millers Point

Quagi Beach, Ravensthorpe, Jerramungup, Millers Point

Thursday, 28 February 2013
Packed up and said goodbyes to Terri and Paul and the other campers.

I headed off for the short trip of 200km to Millers Point. Drove past malleee scrub, woodlands, pastures with a few sheep in them, stubble-filled fields, grain silos and mines. Signs said to be on the lookout for malle fowl but I didn't see any. Another sign said we were entering the Fitzgerald Biosphere. Stopped at Ravensthorpe for milk, bread, fruit and vegies and then 70km later at Jerramungup to give Tuka a walk.

Turned off the highway at Boxwood Hill and 17km turned onto a corregated dirt road that took us the camping ground at Millers Point. No set camp sites with three caravans set up in the lee of the point because of the wind. I found a sheltered spot with easy access to the water for Tuka. Unfortunately the edge is muddy sand. The point overlooks Beaufort Inlet, a large area of water with plenty of birdlife.

It is very windy. I was thinking of kayaking but there are waves in the inlet. I would have a fast kayak NW but would be unable to get back to the van.

	Tuka and the view from the van [Map]		Beach and Beaufort Inlet [Map]
	Waves on the Inlet [Map]

Quagi Beach

Day 40 - Quagi Beach

Wednesday, 27 February 2013
Lazy day reading, walking, photographing, swimming and talking to the other campers. Photograghed the wreck of a pontoon used to transport an oil rig .

Given some red snapper by terri and Paul. Going to cook for tea tonight.

Later in the afternoon Terri and Paul came over and we had a beer while we discussed good campsites in WA and SA.

	Pontoon wreck [Map]		Tuka on the beach [Map]

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Esperance to Quagi Beach

Day 39 - Esperance to Quagi Beach

Castletown, Esperance

Tuesday, 26 February 2013
Was going to go to Cape Le Grand National Park but was told they are very strict about pets coming into the Park even if left in the vehicle. Instead I decided to head west.

Arrived at Quagi Beach, about 70km along the highway from Esperance and a 10km along a dirt road. Camp sites are set among banksias andeucalypts so plenty of shade. My camp site also had a small covered structure which provide further shade. Camp sites are all numbered, large and cost $2 per person per night.

Set up camp and talked to another camper who I think been here for weeks. Tuka and I walked down to the beach. He had a swim. Small beach with white sand and small surf.

Met a couple (Paul and Terri ) that arrived with their bus, small 4wd and boat. They are on their way east. They are from Thirroul and have been on the road since may 2012. Also met a guy who is a birdwatcher. He told me about a number of species that he has observed (Western Wattle Birds, New Holland Honeyeaters and Silvereyes).

Walked by myself around the headland. Had a swim on the way back to camp.

	Campsite [Map]		Quagi Beach [Map]
	Quagi Beach [Map]		Rock platforms and Quagi Beach [Map]

Esperance

Day 38 - Esperance

Castletown, Esperance

Monday, 25 February 2013
Woke up at 6am, had breakfast and washed clothes. Later washed sheets and blanket. Borrowed bucket from office. SHE suggested I do the Great Ocean Drive in the morning before the afternoon haze.

So Tuka and I drove through Esperance and onto the Great Ocean Drive. The Drive overlooks more than eight different beaches. Some such as Twilight Beach have beautiful white sand and crystal clear waters while others are rock and stone based.

Back at the Caravan Park we had lunch and then I washed the inside of the van - trying to remove the dust.

Later in the afternoon a guy in a large bus pulled in behind me. Rob is on his way to Adelaide. He told me that it taken him years to convert the bus into a spacious motorhome. One drawback is that his fuel tank is twice the size of my van's tank but he has only has half the range of my van.

Walked down to the beach late in the afternoon. Tuka sheltered under the ruins of the old wharf while I photographed the scenery.

	Salmon Beach [Map]		Twilight Beach [Map]
	Observatory Beach [Map]		Tuka at jetty ruins [Map]

Harms Lake Rest Area to Esperance

Day 37 - Harms Lake Rest Area to Esperance

Harms Lake Rest Area, Norseman, Scaddan, Esperance, Castletown

Sunday, 24 February 2013
After packing up and driving through a mixture of woodlands and grasslands we came to an extensive area of burnt woodlands about a 100km from Norseman. This area had been burnt in the November 2012 bushfires. The Eucalypts had extensive regeneration at their bases.

Arrived at Norseman. The town has its origins in a prospector stopping at the site of the present town to search for gold. Whilst tethered his horse 'Norseman' pawed the ground causing a piece of gold quartz to lodge in his hoof. The find was lodged and went onto be one of the richest gold reefs ever mined in Australia.

Drove up to the lookout at Beacon Hill and Tuka and I walked around the Beacon Hill Walk Trail. Views of Lake Brazier, a dry salt lake, and in the distance Fraser Range and Dundas Nature Reserve which I had just travelled through. The lookout also provides views of Norseman and the gold mines
I left Norseman and drove towards Esperance along a dirt road, the Dundas Coach Road Heritage Trail instead of the Highway. It features 10 historic stopping places along the 25km between Norseman and the site of the original township of Dundas. Had lunch at the site ofthe Old Dundas Dam and had a walk inthe woodlands (still part of the Great Western Woodlands).

At the end of the trail we drove back onto the highway. Drove past Lake Dundas. It is one of number of large dry salt lakes in the district that are ancient beds of a vast river system. Stopped for rest at Scaddan and admired their Pioneer Murals.

Continued onto Esperance and drove out to the suburb of Castletown and booked into the pet-friendly Bathers Paradise Caravan Park. Owner very friendly and even offered to sell me the park for $2,000,000. Tuka and I then walked the 100m to the dog leash free beach where Tuka had swim.

	Regeneration of Eucalypts after ushfire [Map]		Lake Brazier and Fraser Range [Map]
	Great Western Woodlands [Map]		Spillway, Old Dundas Dam (built 1892) [Map]
	Dundas Townsite (1894-1929) [Map]		Pioneer Murals, Scaddan [Map]

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Nullarbor (Bunda Cliffs to Harms Lake Rest Area)

Day 36 -  Bunda Cliffs to Harms Lake Rest Area

Bunda Cliffs, Eucla, Harms Lake Rest Area

Saturday, 23 February 2013
Woke up in time to see the sunrise over the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight. Packed up and continued on the journey acroos the Nullarbor. Saw Wedge-tailed eagles and ravens perched on the top of 2m shrubs as there were no trees to use.

Stopped at The last of the three Bunda Cliffs lookouts. Could see the cliffs and the beginning of the Merdayerrah Sandpatch. The sandunes were in stark contrast to the majestic cliffs.

Arrived at Eucla Quarrantine Station (SA/WA border) and then Eucla. Drove down off the plataeu and onto the plain and on the dirt road to the ruins of the Eucla telegraph station. It is now buried in sanddunes. It opened in 1877 and used to send 11,000 messages annually - linking WA with the rest of Australia.

In WA it slowly became overcast and eventually rained. Only a light shower but it continued on and off for a few hours. This is in a region that only gets 250mm annually. At one stage I had a few kangaroos hopping in front of van. They had been feeding on the side of the road in the middle of the day probably because of the dull day and low temperature.

Vegetation slowly changed from saltbush to mallee scrub. Passed by signs saying watch out for stray animals for the next 150km and then a sign for Royal Flying Doctor Airstrip (part of the highway is widened and used an airstrip during emergencies). Eventually reached the longest straight stretch of road in Australia the 90 Mile Straight (146.6km).

Crossing the Nullarbor was good fun. I didn't realise that were significant changes in altitude during the trip. I should have checked a topo map beforehand. I did wave at everybody except the road trains (they were too high and fast).

Stopped at a rest area for the night. It was on the edge of the Great Western Woodlands. The GWW is the largest remaining area of Mediterranean- climate woodland on Earth and covers 16million hectares (about the size of England).

	Sunrise over the Bunda Cliffs [Map]		Eucla telegraph station ruins [Map]
	Start of the 90 Mile Straight [Map]		Animal road sign [Map]
	Highway used as airstrip [Map]		Regeneration of woodland after bushfire last year [Map]
	Campsite [Map]

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Nullarbor (Cactus Beach to Bunda Cliffs)

Day 35 - Cactus Beach to Bunda Cliffs

Cactus Beach, Penong, Bunda Cliffs

Friday, 22 February 2013
Took Tuka for a walk. Talked to my next door campers while they were packing up to go. Small world - they were from East Corrimal. After they left I took Tuka for another walk, had a shower and decided to pack up and leave.

Drove past the sand hills and salt lakes into Penong. Updated blog and sent text messages to Anne, Kat, Michael and Brian saying I was going to cross te Nullabor and no reception.
Drive for the first 150km was Mallee scrub and desert scrub and after that we entered the 'treeless plain'.

Drove off the highway and onto 12km sealed road to the Head of Bight, the 'premier whale watching area of Australia'. I was told that they observed 50 calves being born last season. Even without the whales the boardwalks and viewing platforms were worth the $5 entry. Site also contains a cafe, toilets and a picnic shelter.

Stopped at two of the three Bunda Cliffs lookouts. Cliffs look impressive with the sun shining on them. There is a drop of 90 metres from the plain to the ocean. About 60km from the WA/SA border I drove into a parking area and found a track to the cliffs. So camped about 20 metres from the cliff edge with views of the ocean and Nullarbor Plain.

	Toilet, Cactus Beach [Map]		Great Australian Bight 1 [Map]
	Head of Bight [Map]		Nullarbor Plain [Map]
	Great Australian Bight 2 [Map]		Campsite [Map]

Perlubie Beach to Cactus Beach

Day 34 - Perlubie Beach to Cactus Beach

Perlubie Beach, Ceduna, Penong, Cactus Beach

Thursday, 21 February 2013
Packed up and drove to Ceduna. Visited National Tust Museum. Well worth the $3.50.

Drove onto Penong and then off the highway to go to Cactus Beach. Twenty kilometres of dirt road that on the last part was very scenic - sandhills and salt lakes.

Cactus Beach is part of Point Sinclair a privately owned property of 550ha. The area is National Surfing Reserve. Camp site has flush toilets and cold showers with the buildings made out of stone.

On to the Nullarbor tomorrow so no more blog for three days and 1,200km.

	Perlubie Beach [Map]		Original Ceduna Post Office [Map]
	Sand dune and salt lake [Map]		Tuka at Cactus Beach [Map]

Baird Bay to Perlubie Beach

Day 33 - Baird Bay to Perlubie Beach

Baird Bay, Streaky Bay, Perlubie Beach

Wednesday, 20 February 2013
Packed up and drove the 100 metres to Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience. Paid my money, checked that Trish (one of the owners) would keep an eye on Tuka in the van and got a wetsuit. Then joined seven other customers and Alan (one of the owners) and two other tour guides on the boat that would take us out to see the dolphins and sea lions.

First stop was in Baird Bay at the eastern side of Calca Peninsula where we met the dolphins. We all went into the water and snorkelled and waited for the dolphins to come to us. They were fast and a bit aloof but spent enough time with us for us to photograph and observe them.

Moved onto the northern side of Jones Island to observe the sea lions on the beach and rocks and then to snorkel with them. They came and swam around us, observed us, played and then moved away and then come back again. One young sea lion in particular was content to stay with us and play with stones and the bouy rope.

Afterwards we watched Alan and the guides rescue some stranded baby Pelicans from the rock platform on the edge of the island. They had fallen over the cliff edge when chased by sea eagles and could not get back on top of the island.

Returned to Baird Bay, said thanks and goodbyes and drove to Streaky Bay and did some shopping. Then onto Perlubie Beach to stay the night. Met a German couple that were travelling around Australia.

	Dolphin [Map]		Dolphin [Map]
	Sea lion [Map]		Sea lion [Map]
	Sea lion [Map]		Sea lion [Map]
	Sea lions [Map]		Sea lions [Map]
	Sea lions [Map]

Baird Bay

Day 32 - Baird Bay

Baird Bay

Tuesday, 19 February 2013
Relaxing day reading, short walks with Tuka and cleaning some of the dust out of the van. The door seals could be bettter at keeping out the dust.

Very windy day eventually forced us up to the camp ground which was relatively sheltered. Camp ground has gas bbq, sink, toilets and lookout. Talked to some of the other campers.

	View over Baird Bay from lookout [Map]

Streaky Bay to Baird Bay

Day 31 - Streaky Bay to Baird Bay

Streaky Bay, Cape Bauer, Yanerbie Beach, Sceale Bay, Point Labatt, Baird Bay

Monday, 18 February 2013
Vehicle service at Crowder's Tyre Service. Did the walk around town. Bought a very good pasty and a loaf of bread at Elliot's Bakery & Cafe. Bought a cheap Telsta 3G phone ($29).

Drove around the Cape Bauer Loop Drive. Stopped at the Whistling Rocks. Impressive views of the Great Australian Bight on the south side of the cape and mangrove wetlands and sand dunes on the north side. Then out to Yanerbie. Small little collection of houses with impressive views across the bay and the impressive white Sandhills. Then on to Sceale Bay. Nice long beach in the bay but the camping ground is located in the bush and is not within walking distance to the water.

Drove out to Point Labatt to see the only permanent colony of Australian sea lions on the Australian mainland. The sea lions cohabitate with New Zealand fur seals. Counted at least 50+ sea lions and fur seals spread out on the rocks and swimming in the pools. Every once in a while one or two would wake up ond go for swim. Very entertaining.

Drove onto Baird Bay and camped at the pleasant camping ground overlooking the bay. Parked in the day parking area so that Tuka was able to walk to the beach. Went for a couple of walks.

	Foreshore park and jetty, Streaky Bay [Map]		Whispering Rocks [Map]
	SW Coastline, Cape Bauer [Map]		Sealions, Point Labatt [Map]