Fitzgerald Bay to Lipson Cove

Day 21 - Fitzgerald Bay to Lipson Cove

Fitzgerald Bay, Whyalla, Cowell, Arno Bay, Port Neill, Lipson Cove

Friday, 8 February 2013
Decided to have a drive around Whyalla. A small town with a major steelworks. Walked around the beach foreshore and then up to the Hummock Hill Lookout. Spectactular views of Spencer Gulf, the industrial centre, the town and the Middleback Ranges.

During the 100km drive from Whyalla to Cowell the vegetation changed from saltbush to scrubland and then to fields of barley. Cowell is an attractive town with main street leading to a park and beach. We walked down the main street and I bought some groceries and bread. It has a harbour (Franklin Harbour) which contains many oyster leases and is a growing commercial industry for the town.

Was going to camp at Port Gibbon. A tiny village with access by dirt road but the camping ground was situated up on the cliff with a steps to the beach. So no access for Tuka to the beach. Tried to find the Port Gibbon bush camp but track got too sandy so I turned back. I didn't want to get bogged in the middle of nowhere.

Stopped at Arno Bay. Had a walk along the 1.4km Mangrove Boardwalk through the mangroves, mudflats and ending at the creek mouth. Boardwalk built by local community with grants from governments.  Next stop was off the main road at Port Neill. Stopped at the park so that Tuka could have a walk.

Turned off the highway onto a dirt road and drove Lipson Cove about 3pm. Pretty site with only four caravans already there. Set up camp and then Tuka and I had swim, a late lunch, some walking and then I did some reading while Tuka slept. No reception for either Telstra or Optus so no connection with the outside world.

	Whyalla [Map]		Whyalla industrial centre [Map]
	Pub at Cowell [Map]		Mangrove boardwalk at Arno Bay [Map]
	Park and jetty at Port Neill [Map]		Lipson Cove [Map]

Point Lowley to Fitzgerald Bay

Day 20 - Point Lowly to Fitzgerald Bay

Thursday, 7 February 2013
Updated blog, went for a walk and then packed. Decided to move to Fitzgerald Bay. Fitzgerald Bay was first navigated by Matthew Flinders in March 1802.

Only a few houses at the Bay and a few kilometres down the road is a bush camp. Very windy and sandy so trying get the awning to stay in place was fun. Afterwards Tuka and I went for a paddle - did wonder if any sand crabs were going to bite us. We are camped next to shingle beach ridges which date back to the Pleistocene period. Apparently they are 50km long.

Place has a nice outlook but it is no good for swimming (too shallow) and it is very windy. Talking to some of the other campers it is a very good fishing spot though.Will leave tomorrow morning and head south.

	Beach at Point Lowly (petroleum plant in background) [Map]		Upper level camping ground at Port Lowly [Map]
	Fitzgerald Bay [Map]		Shingle Beach Ridges [Map]

Warren Gorge to Point Lowly (via Flinders Ranges)

Day 19 - Warren Gorge to Point Lowly (via Flinders Ranges)

Warren Gorge, Hawker, Port Augusta

Wednesday, 6 February 2013
Went for walk with Tuka early in the morning. We saw 12 wallabies and one wedge- tailed eagle during the walk. Cool morning (17 deg), in contrast to yesterday afternoon. On the way out saw two yellow-footed rock wallabies by the side of the road. Stayed still long enough to let me photograph them.

Turned onto the dirt road, Simonston Road and then a few kilometres later turned off onto the Buckaringa Scenic Drive. Stopped at the Buckaringa Lookout - good views of the South Flinders Ranges. Saw a shingleback on the road. Stopped and helped him move off the road.

Drove back onto Simonston Road and stopped at Hugh Proby's grave. He died in 1852 while trying save some cattle during floods. The slab on the grave weighs 1.5 tonne and was imported from England by his family. Crossed over Willochra Creek - now a dry creek bed but in a good wet season drains into Lake Torrens about 60km away.

Back onto the Quorn-Hawker Road - sealed road again! About 10km before Hawker we turned off to visit the Yourambulla Caves Aboriginal Painting site. By this time the outside temperature was over 40 degrees so the ten minute walk up to the caves was not pleasant. The paintings were worth the walk though.

Stopped at Hawker and got some diesel (164.9 cents/litres) and bought a milkshake at a cafe ($6.50) and gave Tuka some water. Then drove along Wilpena Road up to the Flinders Range National Park. Stopped along the way and photragraphed the Ranges.

Unable to enter park so decided to the Moralana Scenic Drive which has views to the north of the south-west part of the Wilpena Pound and the Wilpena Pound Range and views to the south of the Elder Range. The road consisted of kilometres of corregations interspersed with creek crossings - but worth it for the views.

During the scenic drive it was over 40 degrees outside and 36 degrees in the van (because of me getting in and out the van for photographs). Therefore after finishing the scenic drive decided to go down to the Eyre Peninsula as it was still very hot and I wanted to give Tuka a swim. Drove through Port Augusta and on to a free camping spot at Port Lowly (north of Whyalla). The first thing Tuka did when we arrived was to go for a swim.

	Campsite at Warren Gorge [Map]		Yellow-footed rock wallabies (kangaroo in background) [Map]
	Isolated farm as seen from the Buckaringa Scenic Drive [Map]		Hugh Proby's Grave [Map]
	Willochra Creek [Map]		Yourambulla Caves Aboriginal Paintings (Site 1) [Map]
	View from the Yourambulla Caves [Map]		Wilpena Pound Range [Map]
	Arkaba Hills and Elder Range [Map]		Wilpena Pound Range [Map]
	Elder Range Range [Map]		Gums, windmill and the Flinders Ranges [Map]

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Port Germain to Warren Gorge (Flinders Ranges)

Day 18 - Port Germain to Warren Gorge (Flinders Ranges)

Port Germein, Murray Town, Melrose, Mount Remarkable National Park, Wilmington, Quorn, Warren Gorge

Tuesday, 5 February 2013
Took Tuka for a walk to the jetty. Tide out again - didn't get to see high tide! Then packed up a headed towards the southern Flinders Ranges. Stopped at picturesques towns, Murray Town and Melrose for a quick walk.
Drove down a steep, winding gravel road in to Aligator Gorge in Mount Remarkable National Park. Scenic but not as remarkable as the brochure states.
Next stop Wilmington and then on to a gravel road up to Hancocks Lookout. Views of Spencer Gulf and Flinders Ranges. Saw emus and sheep near a dam on the way back from the lookout. Quick stop at Quorn. Small town that has four pubs!
Arrived at Warren Gorge about 4pm. Privately owned property that allows camping ($7 per night) on the gorge section. Camping areas off the dirt track which follows the gorge - no designated sites. Only one other camper on the site. Saw a solitary kangaroo sitting by the side of track. Stopped and took photgraphs. Found a level site and setup camp next to the dry creek. Tuka has to be kept on a lead as baits have laid on the property. It was 35 degrees inside the van and 38 degrees outside. May have picked the wrong time to come to the Flinders Ranges. Two kangaroos were lying in the shade on the other side of the creek watching us while we had tea. Disturbed by a group of young overseas tourists visiting the gorge. Tour group is travelling from Melbourne to Alice Springs. Talked to a few of them about their trip.

	Murray Town Hotel [Map]		Spencer Gulf as seen from Hancock's Lookout [Map]
	Aligator Gorge [Map]		Rocks, Aligator Gorge [Map]
	Original vegetation and cleared land [Map]		Three of the four pubs, Quorn [Map]
	Kangaroo, Warren Gorge [Map]		Campsite, Warren Gorge [Map]

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The Gap to Port Germein

Day 17

The Gap, Port Pirie, Port Germein

Monday, 4 February 2013
Watched the sheep heading back to the farmhouse while we had breakfast. Left The Gap at 8am and headed towards Port Pirie. About two hours later arrived at Port Pirie. Went to the Information Centre and got brochures about The Flinders Ranges. Had a drive around town. Large town with a population of about 17,000 people. Found a mens hairsdresser and had a haircut - now have short hair! Gave Tuka a walk at Port Pirie Beach. Met a young couple, Steve and Christen that had been at The Gap. They taking a year off work to travell around Australia.

Needed to stay at a carvan park to refill water and do washing. Decided to stay at a Port Germein instead of Port Perie as Port Perie too busy. Port Germein is famous for having one of the longest wooden jetties in the southern hemisphere, originally 1676m (5500 ft.). After booking into the caravan park Tuka and I went for a walk along the jetty but Tuka unable to get to the end as he was too hot. I wanted him to have a swim but low tide and water out near the end of the jetty!

Went for a walk around town. The former Pier Hotel has been renovated into a five bedroom house and can be yours for $495,000. Called in at the Junk Shop. Second hand books, bric-a-brac, clothes etc. crowded into a small shop. Then to the Port Germain Hotel for a pint of Coopers Pale Ale. Talked to some locals as Tuka and I sat outside - me enjoying my beer and Tuka drinking his water.

	Sheep heading home [Map]		Hairdresser at Port Pirie [Map]
	Port Germein jetty and low tide [Map]		A hot Tuka on the jetty [Map]
	Former Pier Hotel for sale [Map]		The Junk Shop [Map]
	The Port Germain Hotel [Map]

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Point Souttar to The Gap

Day 16

Point Souttar, Point Turton, Corny Point, Warooka, Port Rickaby, Port Victoria, The Gap

Sunday, 3 February 2013
Another cool and cloudy day. Had breakfast, took Tuka for a walk, packed up and on the way by 8am. Went to Point Turton and bought bread at the bakery. In contrast to Point Souttar, Point Turton is expanding with new land developments and new houses being built.

Drove up the coast to Betty Bay just south of the Corny Point lighthouse. Lovely long beach.
Then quick drive inland through the dry farmlands into Warooka. Then drove back to the coast and on to Port Rickaby on the west coast. Now a small village rather than a busy port. Called in at Port Victoria to see its small maritme museum. It was closed so bought some hot chips for lunch. Had a walk around the town. Larger than Port Rickaby with many old stone buildings still standing in contrast to the modern houses around them.

Decided to camp at The Gap camping reserve north-west of Maitland. Camping area is set behind low dunes. Tide out when I arrived - much larger tidal range than the southern part of the Peninsula. Beach not as pretty as southern beaches as much rockier - probably good fishing and spear fishing. Camped next to a large field with a couple of hundred sheep scattered around it. Some came over near the van - Tuka very interested!

	Point Turton [Map]		Betty Bay [Map]
	Old farmhouse with green lawn (near Warooka) [Map]		Port Rickaby Maritime Museum and jetty [Map]
	Beach at The Gap [Map]		Sheep grazing next to van [Map]

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Innes National Park and Point Souttar

Day 14 - Butlers Beach to Point Souttar

Butlers Beach, Marion Bay, Innes National Park, Formby Bay, Corny Point, Point Souttar

Friday, 1 February 2013
Strong wind all night rocking the van. Left campsite at about 8am as it was too cold and windy to go walking or swimming. Called into the office and handed in the key. Lisa told me that the property covers 5000 acres and is used to grow barley and raise cattle.

Went to Innes National Park with Tuka hiding in the back.  First stop was Cape Spencer and its lighthouse. Then onto Inneston Historic Township. In the early 1900's it was a small self contained village with its own post office, tennis courts, cricket pitch, plaster factory and chalk factory. All centred around the mining of gypsum. Some of buildings have been restored and can be rented.
Next Ethel Beach and then West Cape. Lookout at West Cape has 360 degree views of the coastline and park. Drove into the Fisherman's Village at Pondalowie Bay. Had a look at Shepherds Hut. It is a small heritage building that can be rented. Final stop at Browns Beach. A long beach with large dunes behind it. It has intertidal reefs which would be great for snorkelling when it is sunny. Overall spent over four hours looking at the sites, buildings and vegetation. Tuka was content to eat dog food, drink water and sleep in the van during this time. There are a number of camping areas scattered around the park, generally close to a beach - all of course are not 'dog friendly'.

As no exit at north end of the park I had to drive back to Marion Bay and then turn onto the Corny Point Road. Drove for about 30km and turned off to Formby Bay. Parking area is at the top of cliffs overlooking the bay and beach. Tuka and I walked along the only access track to the beach - a narrow path that follows the cliff and eventually winds down to the beach. As there is no car access to the beach Tuka and I had the beach to ourselves.

Drove onto Corny Point to buy credit for my phone and was told that Optus had installed a tower at Corney Point recently so reception was good. Carried onto Point Soutar where I found a camping reserve next to the beach. Overlooked by beach houses up on the point with stairs giving access to the beach. Set up camp and took Tuka for a couple of walks.

	Coastal heathland and barley fields [Map]		Loco and dobbin trucks used to haul gypsum to port [Map]
	Shepherds Hut [Map]		Brown Beach [Map]
	Formby Bay [Map]		Tuka at Formby Bay [Map]

Day 15 - Point Souttar

Point Souttar

Saturday, 2 February 2013
Decided to stay here and let Tuka rest as he is a bit wobbly today.
We did some short walks along the beach. I did a longer walk to Burner Beach by myself. Talked to some of the locals. One of them has been coming here for 40 years. Another one now lives in Sydney but still comes back to the family holiday house for holidays.
Weather ranges from showers, cloudy, sunny back to cloudy. Tuka and I managed to have swim in the afternoon when it was sunny.

	Tuka at camp [Map]		Beach at Point Souttar [Map]

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