Mary Pool to Bungle Bungle Caravan Park

Day 134 - Mary Pool to Bungle Bungle Caravan Park

Mary Pool, Halls Creek, Bungle Bungle Caravan Park

Saturday, 1 June 2013
Woke up early, had breakfast took Tuka for a walk (at 6.30am and already people leaving) and then had a cuppa. Packed up and left at 7.15am. Drove through flat country with hundreds of small spindly trees, then open country with hundreds of termite nests and the occassional change in elevation which wasn't enough to need me to change to a lower gear.

Arrived in Halls Creek in the early morning. Purchased fuel (about 200km to the next petrol station) and then drove to the visitor centre. Afterwards walked Tuka in the park and then did some shopping. Bigger town than Fitzroy Crossing with a main street with plenty of shops including a bakery, pharmacy, supermarket and butcher. Still only has a population of 1500 people!

Drove another 110km to the Spring Creek rest area. The shaded part was small and too crowded with a lot of caravans already there at midday.

Drove on a couple of kilometres to the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park. I booked a tour to the Bungle Bungle Range (Purnululu National Park) for tomorrow. They will look after Tuka as I will be away the whole day. Booked a 'site' down at the Spring Creek campsite. Found a spot next to tree which provided some shade. Hot outside and hotter in the van (35 deg) so the shade was good. Took Tuka down the creek and found a waterhole so he could soak in the water up to his chest. Creek too small for crocs.

Later as we were having another walk we were invited over to a caravan where a three couples were having a drink. Tuka met their dog and I sat down and had a talk and a beer.

	Flat earth - grass and termite nests [Map]		Halls Creek Visitor Centre [Map]
	Spring Creek campsite [Map]		Spring Creek [Map]
	Tuka getting cool [Map]

Ellendale to Mary Pool

Day 133 - Ellendale to Mary Pool

Ellendale, Geikie Gorge National Park, Mary Pool

Friday, 31 May 2013
Up early, had breakfast and a walk. Talked to a couple of young women who are on a four week holiday from Darwin. Packed up and drove to Fitzroy Crossing.

The town is an odd place with no central shopping area. It has a supermarket and post office in one area, visitor centre and library in another area, hardware store in another area and the Crossing Inn further away. They are connected byroads and footpaths with nothing in between.

Drove 18km out of town to the Geikie Gorge National Park. Parked in the shade and provided food, water and ventilation for Tuka. Ten went and purchased a boat ride ticket at the open-air DEC office. The office was underwater in the 2011 flood which probably why it is not enclosed.

Twenty two of us were put on the open boat. In the peak season they have three or four boats joined together with up to a 180 people on one tour. We headed off towards the gorge and saw a freshwater crocodile swimming by the boat. During the trip we saw five small freshwater crocodiles only about 30 to 50cm long. Half-bottle wrens were busy flying around the walls. They make a mud nest on the cliff walls above the water level after the wet season. They make new nests each year by getting mud from sandbanks.

Limestone caves have been found behind the cliff walls that are kilometres long. The walls are a beautiful range of colours  and the change in colour on the wall  indicates the height of the average flood which was about 10 metres above our boat. During flood time the volume of water flowing through the Fitzroy River is enough to fill all of the water supply dams for Perth in ten minutes!

After the tour we drove 96km to the rest area at the Ngumban Cliff Lookout. It is on one few elevated parts of the road. It provided views over the area we had just driven across. As an indication how flat most of the area is that we have been driving through I was able to see this range 40km away.

Drove on another 90km to the rest area at Mary Pool on the Mary River in the middle of the afternoon. It was a pretty spot with water in the river and large trees providing shade in the campsite. First thing was to let Tuka have a long soak in a shallow waterhole in the river. I didn't see the crocodile warning signs but luckily the waterhole was isolated from the rest of the river (later told about the crocs by a camper that saw Tuka in the river).

Later talked to Naomi and Mark, campers that we had met previously. After a beer we talked to a few campers as we walked around the campsite. By late in the afternoon there were 30 caravans and motorhomes plus a few tents on the campsite. As the sun set Tuka and I sat outside and we were serenaded by hundreds of cockateels screeching as they flew overhead or roosted in the trees.

	Entrance to a limstone cave, Geikie Gorge [Map]		Geikie Gorge limestone wall [Map]
	More coloured walls [Map]		DEC Geikie Gorge office [Map]
	View from Ngumban Cliff lookout [Map]		Caravans and motorhomes at Mary Pool [Map]
	Our campsite at Mary Pool [Map]		Mary River [Map]

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Ellendale Rest Area

Day 132 - Ellendale Rest Area

Broome, Ellendale

Thursday, 30 May 2013
Up early, had breakfast, a walk and packed up by 7.30am. Said goodbye to my neighbours and hit the road.

Decided to chance the road to the Broome Bird Observatory and drove out along 30km of dirt road with the occassional mudhole to traverse. Arrived at a small office/shop and said hello to some of the staff/volunteers, gave Tuka food and water in the van and went bird observing. Walked down to Roebuck Bay. The tide was out so plenty of small birds out walking and wading inthe muddy areas. Saw some black-faced cuckoo shrikes on the mangroves, babblers up in the woodlands and raptors in the air. Met a couple on the beach that I had last seen a couple of weeks ago. They were camping at the Observatory ($15 per person).

While driving along the hundreds of kilometres of the Savannah Way we past by thousands of 3 to 4 metre spindly gum trees, grasslands with many termite mounds and a few cattle and of course the Boab trees which tell you that you are in northern Australia.

Eventually stopped at a rest area at Ellendale (about 90km from Fitzroy Crossing). It is a three tiered camping area with bitumen surface and toilets. Plenty of caravans and motorhomes there when we arrived. Ten more arrived after we had set up, had a snack and a drink (water for Tuka, Coopers for me).

	Broome Bird Observatory office/shop [Map]		Fantail at the Observatory [Map]
	Low tide at the Observatory [Map]		Mangroves on Roebuck Bay - looking towards Broome [Map]
	An old boab tree [Map]		Raptor on a boab tree [Map]
	Upper level campsites at Ellendale [Map]		Lower level camp sites [Map]

Cable Beach

Day 131 - Cable Beach

Cable Beach, Broome, Cable Beach

Wednesday, 29 May 2013
Had breakfast and walk and then booked us in for another night. Had to move from site A2 to site A5 as the park is just about full. Drove out to the Broome Port. Only small with a jetty which provides anchorage for visitng ships. There were nice views of Roebuck Bay.

Visited the Japanese Cemetry which is the burial place for 919 Japanese pearl divers that lost their lives underwater. Then drove out to the road to the Broome Bird Observatory. Started along the 15km dirt road but came upon parts that were still covered with water from the recent rain. I decided that I didn't want to risk getting bogged so I turned back.

Drove out to Apex Park and had a look at Town Beach and the Pioneer Cemetry. The Cemetry has inscriptions on the grave stones dating from 1886 to 2001. Many of them reflect the history of Broome and its strong links with the pearling industry.

Went back to the southern end of Cable Beach again but this time at high tide. Only a narrow strip of beach left to drive on. I had a swim and Tuka had a paddle. Water clearer than at low tide but still has sediment floating in it. Met a young couple with a small dog that I had last seen at Chapmans Pool in the Margaret River Region. They are going to work at the markets in Broome for the next three months (Broome's peak season).

Back at the caravan park we had a late lunch, hand washed the dog blankets and did some reading in the shade while Tuka slept. Talked to some new arrivals that had come from the north. Filled the fresh water in the van and emptied the grey water in preperation for heading towards Derby and Fitzroy Crossing tomorrow.

	Southern part of Roebuck Bay at low tide [Map]		Japanese Cemetry [Map]
	Town Beach [Map]		The Broome Pioneer Cemetry [Map]
	1896 Gravestone at the Pioneer Cemetry [Map]		High tide at Cable Beach [Map]

Cable Beach

Day 130 - Cable Beach

Cable Beach, Broome, Cable Beach

Tuesday, 28 May 2013
Hot morning so took Tuka for a short walk. Did some washing, had breeakfast and another walk with Tuka. Met the couple with the Horizon Banksia that I saw at Barn Hill Station. Talked to my next door camper. She is a solo traveller on leave from teaching in Tasmania. Did some reading, sorting gear in the van and had lunch.

By early afternoon it was very hot - over 35 deg C in the van so I couldn't leave Tuka in the van while I went walking. So I packed up (left table and chair on my site) and drove into Broome Visitors Centre and found out where I coud take Tuka to the beach. Then I went to Matso's Broome Brewery. Had a very nice Pearlers Pale Ale. I would have liked a carton but they cost $76.

Drove out to the southern end of Cable Beach. I had been told at the Visitors Centre there was beach access and people regularly walk their dogs on the beach. It was low tide when I arrived and I had to drive onto the beach and park the van. There were 4wds and a few small buses (picking up people from boat trips - brought to shore by a dinghy) scattered along the beach. I took Tuka to the water for a paddle and to meet a few other dogs. On the way back Tuka got so tired that he had lie down on the wet muddy sand and rest. I asked a couple that were sitting next their vehicle and watching the view if they would look after Tuka while I got the van. Drove the van down, had a talk (found out that at high tide my van's windows would be underwater) and then put the wet, muddy dog into the van.

Back at the camp gave Tuka food and water and then cleaned his bedding and the van.

	Tuka at the campsite [Map]		Matso's Broome Brewery [Map]
	Initial park on the beach [Map]		Parked next the couple looking after Tuka [Map]

Barn Hill Station to Cable Beach

Day 129 - Barn Hill Station to Cable Beach

Barn Hill Station, Broome, Cable Beach, Broome

Monday, 27 May 2013
Up early, had breakfast and packed up. Took Tuka for a walk around the camp. Said goodbye to Joanne, Allan and Winston and we were on our way again. On the way out to the highway I saw a Kite sitting on top of a tree and I was able to photograph it.

Arrived at Broome midmorning. I did some grocery shopping and walked around the streets of Chinatown with Tuka. Broome is a tourist town with plenty of tourists, an easy going feel and reasonable prices. Plenty of aboriginals wandering around during the day.

Drove over to Cable Beach as it was a hot day and Tuka needed a swim but the main part was not dog friendly. Went out to Gantheamue Point for the view and the dinosaur footprints. It was high tide and you need low tide to see the footprints - another time. Had lunch and then drove to the Visitors Centre.

Booked into Tarangau Caravan Park at Cable Beach. One of the few caravan parks that has a single person rate. Usually only take small dogs but Tuka was ok because of his age. I was given a fairly shady spot which was lucky as it was the last unpowered site available. Set up camp and took Tuka for a walk.

	Square-tailed kite [Map]

Barn Hill Station

Day 128 - Barn Hill Station

Barn Hill Station

Sunday, 26 May 2013
Peter and Cathy left in the morning. Easy morning just reading and having walks around the camp with Tuka. Talked to Peter and Joanne about the trip north.

After lunch I ordered a pizza at the shop. Then Tuka and I went in the 4wd with Allan, Joanne and Winston down to the beach. I went walking and paddling in the water with Tuka while Joanne went looking for shells and Peter did some fishing.

Back at the campsite I had a cuppa and then a walk around the camp with Tuka. A lot more caravans and motorhomes have come in during the day. Met a couple with Horizon Banksia motorhome and had a look inside and a talk with them.

At 6pm I picked up the pizza. It was made by the Thangoo Station cook and was quite good. Talked to Joanne and Peter and then had an early night.

	Tuka with red feet [Map]		Toilets, showers and laundry block [Map]
	Campsite [Map]

Barn Hill Station

Day 127 - Barn Hill Station

Barn Hill Station

Saturday, 25 May 2013
Woke up early, had breakfast and a walk. Cleaned the van inside and then we walked down to the office and booked the new site. Left Tuka with Allan and Joanne and then drove the van to the new site. Underneath large gum trees and plenty of shade made it a much more restful site for Tuka. Did the washing and had a cuppa.

Later Allan and Peter (another camper) went fishing at the beach. Tuka and I went with Joanne (and her dog, Winston) in the 4wd to the beach as it was too steep for Tuka to walk down (the end of the steps to the beach had been washed away in a storm and the last part was now by ladder).

Down at the beach the surf was red because of the red soil washed onto the beach from the cliffs. The beach had red coloured sand. It was hot so eventually Tuka escaped to the shadows from the cliff while we waited for the Allan and Peter to catch their fill of whiting.

Back at camp I cleaned some of the red dirt off Tuka and had lunch. Did some reading while Tuka rested.

Later in the afternoon we drove down to the beach again. We walked to the northern beach over the rocks which was tough going for Tuka. The beach had white sand and eroded cliffs - quite scenic. Allan and Peter managed to catch a few whiting while Joanne, Cathy (Peter's wife) and I talked and walked. I took some photographs. On the way back I had to carry Tuka over the rocky parts.

That evening Cathy, Peter and I met at Allan and Joanne's site and we talked and had a few drinks and ate the whiting cooked in batter by Allan.

	Steps to the beach! [Map]		Tuka on the red beach [Map]
	'Sentinels' [Map]		Eroded cliffs [Map]
	Red surf [Map]

DeGrey River to Barn Hill Station

Day 126 - DeGrey River to Barn Hill Station

DeGrey River, Sandfire Roadhouse, Barn Hill Station

Friday, 24 May 2013
Up early, had breakfast and a short walk with Tuka. Packed up and on the road by 7.10am. After about a 100km I saw a cyclist on a racing bike riding towards Port Hedland. He was about 100km from the nearest roadhouse and 200km from the nearest town.

About 100km later we stopped for fuel at Sandfire Roadhouse. While we were there two roadtrains with cattle on them stopped. We are in cattle country now. They are regularly grazing by the side of the road.

Another 170km later I was going to stop at a rest area but it was not very nice so continued on another 35km to the turnoff into Barn Hill Station. The 10km road into the station is full of red dust. I would be very muddy after rain. Barn Hill is situated on Thangoo Station which is 43,000 acres and stretches 85km along the coast. They have 8,000 head of Braham cattle.

Booked in at the office and went and found a site in the unpowered section. Hot day and not much shade made it hard to get Tuka cool after we set up camp. It was 34 deg C in the van. A couple of degrees cooler outside. Had alook at the track to the beach. Steep and narrow in places - not very good for Tuka. The beach looks great.

Later went down to buy bread at the little shop and met the Corrimal couple (Allan and Joanne) again! They were in the powered section under large trees with plenty of shade. Tomorrow I am going to move to a site next to them.

	Cattle Roadtrains [Map]		Road into Barn Hill Station [Map]
	First Campsite [Map]

DeGrey River

Day 125 - DeGrey River

DeGrey River

Thursday, 23 May 2013
Went for a walk with Tuka and watched the birds. Saw Blue-winged Kookaburras, Black-tailed Treecreepers and the Kites. Came back and had breakfast and had to put a jacket on as cool (probably warm compared to Sydney). Later went kayaking downstream. Very quiet apart from the birds and one idiot camper with a chainsaw.

After lunch did some reading and had a long walk with Tuka. More reading and walks. Tuka had a swim. Packed up the kayak. Talked to a couple from Gosford with a dog (kelpie x rottwieler x staffie). As they are heading north will probably see them again.

That evening talked to my nearest neighbours (with the Dodge) and said goodbye to them. They are heading back to Perth.

	Campsite [Map]		Tuka having a swim [Map]

DeGrey River

Day 124 - DeGrey River

DeGrey River

Wednesday, 22 May 2013
Woe up early to a cool morning. Had breakfast, a walk to the river with Tuka and another cuppa. Did some reading.

Tuka and I went for a walk downstream. Met some campers, one of whom worked for BHP so we had a talk about the mining in the area. Then a Jabiru flew over and we talked about the birdlife. Some birds are nesting in the gum tree next to their van. The nest looks like flood debris caught in a branch.

Back at camp had another cuppa and a read. New campers arrived nearby with a camper trailer being towed by a Dodge car built in SA in 1924. It has crossed the Birdsville Track. Tuka met their dog (later in the day Tuka would wander over by himself to say hello).

Before lunch I washed the salt off the pieces of the frame for the kayak. Then I assembled it and went for a kayak upstream against the current. At one place I had to get out to walk through some shallows and I sank to my knees in the river bed. Kayaked up past the railway ridge and stopped at the large sand/gravel island in the centre of the river. Fast paddle back to camp.

After lunch Tuka and I had another walk and he had a swim. While walking I had a look at the flood debris in the trees and I estimated that the flood waters would have been four metres above our campsite and at least eight metres higher tan the present water level.

Another kayak later in the day down to the road bridge. Talked to some of the other campers as I went walking with Tuka.

	Road bridge with road train [Map]		1924 Dodge [Map]
	Kayak on sandbank near railway bridge [Map]		Looking upstream on the sandbank [Map]
	Flood debris in the trees [Map]